22/4 HOMME – PARIS S/S 2012 PRESENTATION
On Friday June 24, 2011, 22/4, a label founded in 2007, held a presentation of their menswear line at the Galerie Sophie Scheidecker nestled in the Marais. Dedicated to “Global Villagers,” the collection is about the modern traveler, about the city traveler. At first glance the collection appeared lighthearted, classic, yet retro, and after further inspection, the little details arise and give the line a new feeling.
According to designer Stephanie Hahn, the inception of the line for Spring and Summer 2012 from 22/4 all began with a slit down the back of the jacket — and Death in Venice, a film by Luchino Visconti based on the novella by Thomas Mann. Death in Venice, a rather bizarre story of an aging man who finds himself passionately attracted to a young boy, may seem an odd inspiration for a collection, as the most notable reference to fashion in the film is of a grotesque and sickening old man dressing and styling himself in a manner to unsuccessfully appear youthful. However, Hahn takes the both “too old” and the “too innocent” and manages to make them appealing and current.
The nautical theme of Death in Venice carries over to the collection in a range of broad pinstripes and plenty of navy. Accenting the deep blues are mustards, bordeaux, and the occaisional pop of electric coral. The fabrics were mostly lightweight and included some stunning knitted and woven linen pieces
While watching the models move and interact, one notices that the little hidden slits throughout the outerwear afforded glimpses of the garments underneath. With a few raw, exposed edges, zippered closures with double breasted button accents, this playful collection puts a lot of emphasis into the added flourishes, for instance, the hidden pocket beneath the lapel of one trench.
Hahn explained that she added these little details because she intends for the wearer to feel connected to his garments, to feel special in that only the person who owns it knows about the small peculiarities.
“I like to do more classic looks for winter, but in the summer I prefer to have more freedom,” Hahn remarked. Yet even with all the contrasting colors, fabrics, textures, and features, the collection remained classic in its essence.
Fashion week coverage directed by Indira Cesarine
Article by Amy Tabarly, Photos by Pascale V Marquis