Miuccia Prada looked to the house’s past for her latest collection, a mashup of archival prints and fabrics. Prada’s “Pocone” nylon made a comeback in the form of bags, padded outerwear and hats. The label’s popular past prints—including its flame, lipstick and banana graphics—were layered over and juxtaposed next to each other on Hawaiian shirts and shorts. The rubber Prada Sport stripe was also revived, adorning bucket hats and windbreakers.
Inspired by the unabashed gender-bending sexuality of Madonna, Jeremy Scott of Moschino debuted a kink-infused collection of thigh high boots, lingerie, skimpy pinstripe suiting and lots of patent leather. “People are in control of their sexuality and the way they want to look; you’re owning your own power,” Scott told Vogue, a timely, uplifting statement in the midst of myriad sexual harassment cases plaguing fashion and entertainment. Drag queen Violet Chachki closed the show, conjoined to a male model by the tail of a tandem tuxedo jacket. “In the end, aren’t we all joined?” Scott asked.
Prints reigned supreme at Versace, from tartan to tiger to the house’s signature gold filigree. Bags were quilted and upholstered like Chesterfield sofas, boots were heavy-soled and studded and accessories were hung with tassels. Rich velvets were fashioned into button downs, puffer jackets and low-slung pants. Sneaker enthusiasts are sure to snatch up Versace’s latest footwear offerings that featured colorful prints, neon laces and molded soles. As usual, Donatella’s collection asserts the house as a leading force in fashion—and will no doubt bolster the buzz around the imminent debut of “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story.”
The iconic Italian design house, helmed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, offered a collection of luxe streetwear essentials sure to be eaten up by Tommy Ton, The Sartorialist and other street style documenters next season. Set in a faux airport arrivals hall, Fendi’s jet-setters walked the runway in fur bombers, fanny packs (worn slung over the shoulder) and bucket hats branded with the label’s signature double F logo. Venturini Fendi also collaborated with graphic designer Reilly for a capsule collection of shearling-trimmed outerwear and accessories printed with a collaged mashup of this season’s references—the house’s logo, the word “FREEDOM” (a nod to the set’s travel theme) and check prints.