The Roberto Cavalli Fall /Winter 2015/16 collection takes its inspiration from “an unexpected vision of the Great Country, seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship.” In line with the Museum Costume Institute’s summer show, China: Through the Looking Glass, Cavalli used iconic Chinese elements to create luxurious details. Oversize gold “pagoda” buttons punctuate the dresses, coats and maxi-gilets, to create an elongated silhouette. Ming vase-inspired floral motifs in golden metal climb up the transparent plexiglass heels of ankle boots worn with dresses and semi-flats worn with loose, tailored pants. Decorations become jewels: buckles on the wide belts and on the new Heroine bag that can be worn as a maxi clutch or as a shoulder bag. The last reference to traditional Chinese motifs is in the linings of the long coats, painted and embroidered like cloisonne’ enamel.
There’s also the modern motif inspired by the romantic Chinese heroine Maggie Cheung: the windowpane check print cheongesam in the film In the Mood for Love. This graphic element is newly interpreted as a white stitched leather embellishment on column coats in wool crepe, in white string embroidery on black micropaillette evening dresses, melded with classic floral patterns, in white pailletes on fur, or in silk fringed by hand and added to fabric to create an entirely new type of “fur.”
Among those in attendance at the Milan show were Michelle Yeoh with Jean Todt, Daisy Lowe, Amber Le Bon, Nieves Alvarez, Rocio Munoz Morales, Nadège, Chiara Ferragni, Candela Novembre and Paolo Stella.