Italy’s fashion capital is making a claim for menswear runways filled with the most diversity. From edgy and harsh to comfortable and cozy, Milan brought a slew of styles that will keep everyone warm next fall.
With both mens and womens styles walking the runway together, the Prada collection pulls the viewer into the past. Miuccia Prada focused on what she described the “bad and difficult periods,” of history and the effect left the crowd somber. Uniformed models in trench coats, capes, and nautical caps mixed with colorful scenes depicted on garments perfectly reminds that fashion is a form of art. The diverse collection relied heavily upon military greys and browns with blunt pops of complimentary hues. Knits stood out amongst mixed textures for both their chunky nature and rich colors.
Gucci paved the way for accepting gender fluidity both with their clothes and models. Transgender model Hari Nef, seen acting in Transparent, walked the runway in one of many androgynous outfits seen in the latest collection. The runway itself was red, adding a glaring glow to the outfits that bordered outrageous, yet were perfectly styled. Accessories were the defining touches: colorful, bold and chunky, they completed Alessandro Michele’s bright, busy vision.
Armani kept the hues and structure both transitional and subtle. Grays were interrupted by delicate waves of color, while thinly fitted jackets and calf-grazing trousers gave way to delicate silhouettes. Though the shearling was real, all the fur was faux, keeping the show PETA friendly. The front row was star-studded with Russell Crowe making an appearance.
Plenty of ankles were seen on each of Salvatore Ferragamo’s models, whose tailored trousers ended about an inch before the loafers began. In autumnal colors, the looks were sleek, yet warm. Plastered with abstract patterns that both pleased and jolted the eye, hues of blue and orange stood out against the multiple fabrics. The funky collection is fitting for fall.
Bathrobe coats were taken to extremes in Fendi’s Fall 2016 collection. The runway itself was made of shearling and housed luxurious looks that may be better suited for the bedroom than the catwalk. Slouchy, plaid trousers gave ode to our warmest pair of flannel pajama bottoms, while the textures were overwhelming, yet elegant. Though the idea of comfort is always appealing, Fendi may have crossed the line between rolled-out-of-bed and casual Fridays.
Tokyo-vibes were found at Dsquared2, whose edgy line was filled with sleek black tailoring and plentiful layers. Trousers skinny enough to rival a pair of stockings were opposed by puffy parkas layered one over the other. Plaid skirts gave kilt-esque feelings, while highlighter pink and green colors and heavy silver zippers could have easily transitioned the models from the runway to a punk concert.
If there is only one concept carried across the multiple shows of Milan, it’s that the designers kept things interesting. With each runway proving to viewers that it is different than the last, men have a lot to choose from for the fall. While only the most daring will wear the trends from head to toe, hints of these runways can make their way into even the most basic fashion follower’s closet. Now it’s time to see if the Parisians will keep up with the diversity or fall back on the classics.