Everyone’s favorite week has unfortunately, come to an end. Although New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’18 ended September 13th, we’ve compiled some of the most standout runway looks from our favorite designers along with memorable trends.
Designer Raf Simons’ second runway collection for Calvin Klein (205W39NYC) debuted on September 7th. A synthesis of the “American dream” and the “American nightmare,” Simons was inspired by both horror films like “Carrie” and vintage Westerns for his Spring/Summer 2018 collection. At 8 PM, Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford’s 16-year-old daughter made her runway debut that night for Calvin Klein in yellow pants and a black and white satin Western shirt, pieces emblematic of Simons’ Americana-inspired collection. Notable guests in attendance included Mahershala Ali, Lupita Nyong’o, Brooke Shields, Trevor Noah, and Jake Gyllenhaal.
Everything about Tom Ford‘s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was capital-F Fabulous. The veteran designer’s show debuted on Wednesday, September 6th at the Park Avenue Armory. Celebrities in attendance included Kim Kardashian West, Julianne Moore, Chaka Khan, and Andrea Riseborough, of Ford’s recent Academy Award-nominated drama Nocturnal Animals. The show was a spectacle of luxury with a hint of eerie, Nocturnal Animals-esque darkness. The air was permeated with Ford’s newest fragrance “F—ing Fabulous,” and top models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner walked down the runway in tight-fitting evening gowns. Equally important, a notably wild after-party followed the show, letting loose some of the intense energy of the SS18 collection. The party was emceed by DJ Virgil Abloh, was packed with runway models on the dancefloor, and had semi-nude male waiters serving hamburgers and champagne.
Rihanna’s FENTY x Puma show was undoubtedly one of the most highly anticipated of the season. And it did not disappoint! BadGalRiRi’s show debuted on September 10th at the Park Avenue Armory. At 9 PM, the venue was electricized with lights and motorcycles; motocross stunt men accompanied neon X Games-inspired swimsuits and “athleisure,” and of course, the star herself appeared, blowing kisses to the crowd from the back of a motorcycle. FENTY x Puma made sportswear epic with combinations that only Rihanna could put together; high heels were paired with spandex shorts, and flip-flops melded into creepers, an emblem of the collection’s synthesis of “motocross and surf.” The show featured models Slick Woods, who is the face of the Rihanna’s new Fenty beauty line, and Adriana Lima.
Perhaps the most controversial show of 2017 New York Fashion Week’s season was that of Alexander Wang. The artist’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection debuted on a blocked off street in Bushwick, Brooklyn on September 9th late in the evening. Despite featuring top models Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and the new face Kaia Gerber, the show was widely criticized not only for starting an hour late, but for the tremendous crowds pushing and shoving to get into the Bushwick street-made-runway. Attendees stood alongside police barricades as models descended from a bus clothed in Wang’s deconstructed pantsuits, monochromatic party dresses, and disassembled denim silhouettes. #WangFest was critiqued by publications including W and Women’s Wear Daily.
Jeremy Scott’s 20th Anniversary Show was loud, fun, and undeniably iridescent. Scott’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection debuted on Friday, September 8th. Jeremy Scott legend Devon Aoki took the runway in a glittering silver jacket, a rhinestone-studded mesh skirt, and crystal-studded Doc Martens. Thus the decidedly playful impression for the show was set, with top models Coco Rocha, Stella Maxwell, Gigi Hadid, and newcomer Sofia Richie (Lionel Richie’s daughter) ensued, all bearing equally eccentric ensembles. The SS 2018 collection featured 1980s-inspired streetwear, including sports jerseys, sequined baseball caps, and embellished army fatigues. As an homage to his anniversary, Scott showcased sequined denim jackets reading “Viva Avant Garde” and “Keep Fashion Weird” that had been originally included in the designer’s 1999 campaign with Devon Aoki.
Philipp Plein’s Spring/Summer 2018 show was a mashup of lingerie, leather, and burlesque. The Swiss-based designer’s collection debuted on Saturday, September the 9th at the Hammerstein Ballroom, which was re-made to resemble a cabaret bar. Burlesque queen Dita Von Teese began the show with a striptease, and was followed by a performance from the rapper Future. The collection itself was inspired by the phrase “Good Gone Bad,” and featured a plethora of bondage-inspired fashion in large quantities of denim and leather. Philipp Plein’s models included not only Adriana Lima and Stella Maxwell, but also Cordell Broadus (Snoop Dogg’s son), Vernell Varnard (Snoop Dogg’s father), and actress Teyana Taylor.
Jason Wu‘s Spring/Summer 2018 collection met at the apex of all things Jason Wu; a nude color palette paired with exquisite garment construction. On Friday, September 8th, the designer revealed pieces that reinterpreted versions of 20th-century-designer Madame Grès’ signature pleated fashions. Wu juxtaposed his trademark elaborate tailoring with materials like cotton and jersey to create a more relaxed collection that he even went so far as to describe as “casual.” The designer described this season’s collection as “easier than what you’ve seen from [him].” Model Bella Hadid was the first down the runway, bearing heavily winged eyeliner and a red-and-white striped pleated cotton dress.
On the morning of Monday, September 11th, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s Spring/Summer 2018 show took place on the Upper East Side’s Carlyle Hotel. The Row’s runway was classically “Olsen,” with soft, feminine silhouettes and a muted color palette. The show itself was also quintessentially understated—breakfast was served, no outside photographers were allowed in, and official runway images were not released until September 13th. “We wanted something softer, more romantic,” Ashley explained, “With everything so harsh, we wanted to take it down, show lightness.”
Anna Sui’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was warm, rich in florals, and highly accessorized. Her “Summer of Love” show debuted on Monday, September 11th at Skylight Clarkson Studio. The collection, which was revealed at 7 PM, was studded with both modern and historical inspirations; from the Brönte sisters to the “Counter-Culture” exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York, the collection was de rigeur, inescapably bohemian. The designer displayed her signature floral prints and loose-fitting silhouettes on top models Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, and Liu Wen.
For the VFiles Spring/Summer 2018 show, four designers convened at the Barclays Center in Brooklyn to create a streetwear-inspired collection, including well-known Chinese streetwear brand INXX, and three relatively new faces. On Wednesday, September 6th, Antwerp-based menswear designer JunJie Yang, London-based womenswear designer Louis Pileggi, and London-based haute couture designer Christian Stone were all VFiles contest winners who showcased their signature styles in an eclectic fusion of hoodies, bomber jackets, nylon dresses, and fur coats. The event commenced with rapper Offset rolling onto the runway in a yellow Lamborghini, was punctuated by a performance with singer Jessie J, and was attended by artists Yung Lean, Tinashe, Joey Bada$$, and Dapper Dan, who mentored the contest winners.
Designer Shayne Oliver’s Spring/Summer 2018 bombastic collection for Helmut Lang debuted on Monday, September the 11th. Oliver, a veteran of the New York underground clubbing scene and designer of menswear line Hood By Air, pulled inspiration for the show from “music bands and the concept of being able to leave the best show you’ve ever been to with a tangible piece of the show.” Oliver, in conjunction with Helmut Lang’s editor in residence, Isabella Burley, created a line of merchandise to accompany the streetwear-inspired collection—T-shirts and hoodies priced from $150 to $295. Veteran Helmut Lang models Missy Rayder, Danielle Zinaich, Kirsten Owen, Slick Woods, and Selena Forrest walked alongside trans model Sophia Lamar in a collision of decadent BDSM-inspired and minimalist looks.
Libertine’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection debuted on Monday, September 11th. Johnson Hartig created a kaleidoscopic parade of the label’s quintessential whimsicality—complete with lots of leopard, sequin hoodies, Warhol bananas, and a plethora of unique prints. “[Libertine’s] philosophy doesn’t change much from season to season,” Hartig stated, but rather about “about pushing rules.” Hartig explained via Instagram that “what [they’re] doing together DOES have the power to change lives,” and that “an action made with love reverberates endlessly across the universe.” His statement was testament to the label’s free-spirited tactility.
Jonathan Simkhai’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection debuted on Friday, September 9th at at Skylight Clarkson Studio. Simkhai’s looks were remarkably feminine and possessed a quality of “airiness” (as described by the designer). The runway was dominated by an array of flowing silhouettes and soft neutrals. The collection was complemented by Simkhai’s new collaboration of nude sneakers with Reebok. Celebrities Shay Mitchell, Halsey, and Olivia Palermo were in attendance.
As per usual, Prabal Gurung‘s Spring/Summer 2018 collection was all about bright colors and political statements. This season’s show, which debuted on September 10th, was a continuation of the designer’s Fall/Winter 2017 sociopolitical commentary on racism and immigration. Hillary Clinton’s aide Huma Abedin and feminist activist Gloria Steinem dominated the front row, while top models Ashley Graham and Gigi Hadid walked the runway. Gurung’s staff bore T-shirts bearing the slogan “Stronger in Colour,” complementing this season’s uncharacteristically vivid hues (namely, magentas and yellows) displayed on decidedly feminine silhouettes worn by models of all sizes.
On Sunday, September 10th, Vivienne Tam strode down the runway accompanied by a radish monster. Although the collection was decidedly romantic, marked by silk georgette gowns and an ethereal color palette, Wuba, Chinese blockbuster Monster Hunt 2‘s main character dominated the runway. Accompanied by Tam’s own hand-drawn animal designs, motifs bearing producer Bill Kong’s cute radish-shaped monster added an element of play to this season’s patterned dresses and trench coats.
Husband and husband Chico Wang and Laurence Li debuted “Makeup Factory” at this year’s New York Fashion Week. Laurence & Chico, the relatively new Canadian lovechild (est. 2015) of the aforementioned married designer duo, presented kitsch and fairytale-inspired fashions down a path made of glitter and grass on Wednesday, September 6th. The presentation was as much about hair and beauty as it was about fashion, with makeup-inspired looks designed by Chico Wang and prints illustrated by Laurence Li. The collection featured models who donned colossal pastel afros and feathered and beaded makeup looks created by Cui “Masa” Xiaohong, who launched Chinese cosmetics brand Marie Dalgar. Show swag included a custom lipstick box of over 10 shades of red and orange hues.
The beloved Christian Siriano combined lively shapes with monochromatic hues and more than a dash of non-binary gender displays. On Saturday, September the 9th, Siriano debuted a show that featured voluminous, colorful silhouettes juxtaposed with more androgynous pieces that were not intended to be ascribed to a single gender. In fact, the designer did not want to impose any sort of limitations upon his models in terms of race, gender, or size. Included in Siriano’s show were trans model Avie Acosta, supermodel Coco Rocha, and plus-sized models Candice Huffine and Precious Lee. “Today [was] about being beautiful, feeling good,” Siriano said of the event. Comedian Leslie Jones giggled alongside actresses Gina Gershon and Patricia Clarkson in the front row.