Fashion Month is officially over! Paris Fashion Week has drawn to a close, and we’ve rounded up the best new collections. Don’t miss our lowdown on the highlights.
Kenzo – La Collection Memento
For its third La Collection Memento, season-specific homages to founder Kenzo Takada, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon looked to French Post-Impressionism, an artistic movement that Takada had a deep affinity with. Reproductions of Rousseau’s lush work appeared on knit sweaters, jacquard outerwear and accessories, all cut in cropped and ruffled silhouettes sure to be va hit among today’s stylish millennial set. The brand’s signature striped knits were also prominently featured, this time in punchy contrasting blues and oranges.
For Balenciaga‘s most mature collection to date, Demna Gvasalia utilized the technology of 3D scanning to precisely fit the collection’s sculptural outerwear to each model’s body. Checked outerwear and suiting featured nipped in waists and hips that ballooned out, creating an exaggerated yet wearable hourglass figure for both men and women. Draped minidresses harkened to the 80s, as did separates such as fuzzy sweaters and knife-pleated skirts in bright pink and green. Of course, the collection also featured Gvasalia mainstays: nylon outerwear billowed to comical proportions, over-the-knee sock boots were the footwear of choice, and shirts and hoodies were emblazoned with the World Food Program logo (proceeds from the socially-conscious streetwear will benefit the program).
For fall 2018, Thom Browne challenged himself to imagine “Vigée Le Brun painting a vision of what she wanted to be in the 21st century.” Le Brun, portrait painter to Marie Antoinette, crossed boundaries of what was acceptable for both artists and women of the time. Her radical stylistic choices were apparent in Browne’s collection, which toyed with the exposure and covering of the classical feminine figure. The nude figure was coyly hinted at with the strategic placement of hand-sewn mink flowers; a wool coat-dress was embroidered with the outline of delicate lingerie; sculptural skirts bulged in spherical forms recalling breasts and hips; split-personality gowns were half buttoned-up overcoat half bustier.
Like many designers this season, Miuccia Prada was inspired by the 80s. Elle Fanning, a longstanding Miu Miu muse, opened the show sporting a gravity-defying retro bouffant. Other references to the 80s included high-waisted acid wash denim, billowing shoulders for a super broad silhouette, and an update on the 80s bomber jacket, this time rendered in tweed and leather.
Karl Lagerfeld ventured into the woods for fall 2018 with the usual immersive set, this time full of earthy foliage and clusters of bare trees. Chanel‘s classic tweeds were rendered in restrained autumnal tones. Ladylike minidresses, full-length coats and flowing maxis were covered in a kaleidoscopic print of half-decayed leaves. The collection also featured a few streetwear-inspired pieces (no one, not even Lagerfeld, is immune to Demna Gvasalia’s influence): the iconic tweed jacket was reimagined as a puffer, layered over a skirted hoodie.