Couture Week takes place twice a year every January and July in Paris. With the Spring 2018 Haute Couture shows afoot, the runway has played host to collections resplendent with rich fabrics and sculptural silhouettes, many inspired by intellectual subject matters like the surrealist movement. Read on for highlights from the collections thus far.
At Dior, surrealism reigned supreme. The collection, inspired by surrealist artist and author Leonor Fini, featured birdcage-like structures; graphic black-and-white patterns that, if stared at for too long, create mind-bending optical illusions; and fluffy feather detailing. “Surrealism speaks about dreams and the unconscious, and often about women’s bodies. It’s very close to fashion,” Dior front-woman Maria Grazia Chiuri told Vogue. Indeed, the movement’s teachings melded with the female form in Chiuri’s latest offerings—quite literally, too: models sported collarbone tattoos of the writings of André Breton, the founder of the surrealist movement.
Chanel’s latest couture collection was set in a rose-filled garden, complete with its own monumental fountain. The clothes were fit for a fantasy garden party—the house’s signature tweeds were crafted into light miniskirts, gowns featured layercake-worthy panels of tulle and lucite-heeled ankle boots were delicately beaded. As rumors of Karl Lagerfeld’s retirement circulate, we hope he’ll round his 35 years at Chanel out to an even 40.
The Wild Garden,” Giambattista Valli translated the beauty of an untamed garden to sartorial form. Exquisite floral macramé lace, perfectly-draped monochrome gowns and Valli’s signature voluminous frocks made with over 350 yards of pleated tulle were all outstanding highlights from the collection. At its core, the collection epitomized sumptuous beauty. “There’s a lot of research into intellectual beauty, alternative beauty, a more edgy beauty, to break the rules. But I’m the opposite. I love the idea of something harmonious, sensual, romantic,” Valli said backstage.
Ralph & Russo
A popular choice of designer among this year’s SAG Awards attendees, Ralph & Russo showed a collection of curve-clinging gowns in luxurious fabrications including velvet, sequin-encrusted silk crepe and chainmail. Among the notable front row attendees were model Natalia Vodianova, style icon Olivia Palermo and pop-star Kylie Minogue.