Every fashion destination has its defining characteristics – look to New York for the hippest street style, London for camp and quirk, and Paris for edgy sophistication. Milan is king among the clothes capitols so for their most recent fashion week, everyone was wondering, will the city of luxury keep in step with its usual high class opulence or will designers showcase politics instead of purses? From February 22nd through the 27th at fashion week, storied labels managed a mix of both. Look below for The Untitled Magazine’s picks for the top shows of the week.
In 2017, fashion isn’t making an impact unless it’s making a political statement. At NYFW, pink pins that signaled support for Planned Parenthood were ubiquitous and at the Oscars on Sunday the accessory of the evening wasn’t a sequin clutch, it was a blue ACLU ribbon. Over at Missoni another conscious item of clothing made an appearance. While the usual prints and knits were very pleasing, the most talked about accessory was the pink pussy hat that each model wore for the finale walk. Of course Angela Missoni made an already much loved item even better by adding the label’s signature style and a rallying cry for her fashion forward Women’s March. At the end of the runway she stated, “In a time of uncertainty, there is a bond between us that can keep us strong and safe: the bond that unites those that respect the human rights of all. Let’s show the world that the fashion community is united and fearless.”
Over at Gucci, cool guy, Alessandro Michele delivered another parade of eclectic geek chic but for his debut men’s and women’s presentation he amped up the lineup in a big by presenting a staggering 120 looks that featured his usual mix of Eastern opulence married with 70’s glam. While his aesthetic didn’t differentiate much from last seasons, his reasoning behind the singular vision was a fresh idea in fashion. Backstage Michele said, “We need to let the world not go so fast. If you’re doing that, you don’t reflect, and in these times we need to reflect more.”
At NYFW, Jeremy Scott seemed to be making a comment on the fickleness of humans. We so quickly transfer our worship from one false idol to another, absorbing whatever the current person of the moment has to say, despite how Trumped up their statements may be. Over at Moschino, Jeremy Scott delivered a collection that commented on another kind of consumption by showing looks that resembled cardboard. The irony is not lost on the designer. By the time these clothes have been recycled and reproduced by big volume copycats like Forever 21, Moschino will have tossed the aesthetic aside for it’s next collection. The relentless cycle of fast fashion may never end but at least Scott will always deliver reality with a dose of fun.
At Versace, models wore their hearts on their…hems and their hats, and their chests. Words like equality, love, power, and courage showed up on the edges of sexy slips, on beanies, and scrolled across dresses and shirts. However, these ladies were no flower children – punk makeup, structured blazers, and an extra dose of attitude let us know that the wearers of these clothes are ready to fight for their rights.
A couple of decades ago, Miuccia Prada was a liberal student wrapped up in left-leaning politics and protests. This collection referenced her rebel roots and made mention of the current climate by taking a trip down memory lane and back to the future. The procession of looks started with 1970s retro cords before moving backwards into 1960s frills and 50s silhouettes, finally ending with the magpie layers of today. Perhaps this was a show to say – progress is not always linear but we still have to try and make strides.
Dolce & Gabbana
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have had their share of controversy revolving their political views but their show at Milan Fashion Week will probably silence the haters, for the time being. The pair used the the FW’17 Dolce & Gabbana collection as a showcase for unity, diversity, and family. More than 100 people connected to the designers – popstars, social media stars, European aristocrats, actors, and many more walked the runway in clothes that exhibited the usual D&G leopard and lace with several doses of Gucci-esque eclecticism in the form of floral brocades and pinky patches.