BACKLASH BY ISAMU KATAYAMA – PARIS F/W 2012 FASHION SHOW
This season, the Backlash man is a Nordic traveller turned to urban locales, hence the mash-up name for the collection, Norban Man. Isamu Katayama’s specialty is his leather work, and here with this collection, his combination of leather with wool, two natural, earthy fabrics that he manipulates with ease.
Katayama’s Fall/Winter 2012 presentation took place on January 22 in the Marais and was followed by a charming after party where one could see up-close the details put into each garment, such as the subtle herringbone-printed leathers and the small button details, from motorcycle leather jackets to black and white jacquard knits. Passing a flask of wine between them, the models changed into different ensembles throughout the evening with Katayama surveying.
The Norban man is experienced. He has seen the harshness and the beauty of the world, and now he’s composed in his loosely tailored jackets and soft, relaxed trousers and thick combat boots. Katayama tells a clear, convincing story, where the garments have a mysterious murmur of unspoken poetry about them, of marked confidence. A loose-fitted knit pant is paired with a fitted leather vest with a diagonal zip side pocket. These diagonal, asymmetrical lines run throughout the the collection, drawing from the traditional motorcycle jacket; this element transfers to other coats and jackets, most notably in a long, simple leather coat. Free of any kind of embellishments or showy treatments, this coat highlights the beautiful drape and quality of the leather itself. The smooth collar brings an echo of Katayama’s Japanese point of view into the work.
Article by Amy Tabarly
Photography by Jodie Talbot for XXXX Magazine, “The Untitled Magazine”