The Spring / Summer 2013 fashion shows may be over, but they have left a trail of fashion trends and big talking points in their wind. Along with some classic deja vu standbys and exciting new favorites, the 2013 global fashion scene ran the gamut. Come the new year, early trend adopters will be split for choice when planning their wardrobe for next season.
From pastels to neons and stripes to leather, let The Untitled Magazine guide you through the season’s sartorial forecast of the biggest trends to emerge from Spring / Summer 2013.
White is taking over as the foundation color of this seasons sleek and minimalistic dressing. This year, it’s difficult to escape its fresh luminous presence in everything from classic menswear separates, plunging gowns, retro silhouettes, and structured eyelets. White is the perfect alternative when it comes to conveying a minimal and polished look or on the contrary as seen at Yigal Azrouel and Mathieu Mirano in New York, unique geometric looks of crisp white blockades drunk with deep tones ultimately creating a serious color-blocking effect. Parkchoonmoo reinvented the traditional silhouette playing with shapes and volume mixing a clean white color palette with a varying medium of mesh, leather, and cotton.
Bernard Chandran of London saw bright whites as well playing largely with geometry and striking fabrics for a more sporty and chic theme, while Liu Fang in Paris crafted skeletal pieces of knit looks in off whites and cremes further exaggerating the scene with white powder on each model’s face. In Milan, shows opened with all-white ensembles, fusing the current trend of mixing innocent femininity and fierce modernity at Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci, Jil Sander and Missoni–the white trend, appropriately synonymous with summer, was featured heavily throughout collections and made for a fresh fashion outlook.
Neon was seen consistently on the runway during NY Fashion Week spring/summer 2013 both in youthful and more downtown styles, such as in Proenza Schouler’s collection showcasing vibrant mixes of bright, jewel hues, tangerines, acidic greens, cerulean, emerald green and cobalt blue. Neon colors were also spotted at Stephen Burrows in equal parts of femininity and spunk with bright patterns juxtaposed against simple silhouettes–this explosion of color is sure to be popular with the young and the bold.
On the runways hot pink, grass green, orange and cobalt blue made the most impact when paired with bright whites, matched together in lieu of color-blocking as seen at J. Mendel and worn in a degradée style as seen at Son Jung Wan.
John Rocha and Louise Gray flew the flag in London with neon pop art prints, while Missoni injected some color into the proceedings in Milan, Allude portrayed amazingly aquatic azuls and Luis Buchinho and Amaya Arzuaga made us reach for the shades in Paris .
Stripes are all the hype this season, and were present on the runways from New York through to Paris. The summery light mood of the season was perpetuated by its’ stripes, inspired by beach umbrellas as seen at Dolce&Gabbana. Whether horizontal, vertical or oblique, stripes adorned the likes of coats, dresses and shirts this season and will continue to reign true through summer.
Stripe stories popped up on runways with unconventional pairings and different concepts that made audiences look at stripes in a new way. In Paris, Alexis Mabille’s display of stripes created a country-chic look that blended with a casual city-style, while Devastee’s hyper-graphic stripes leaned towards for a distinctly urban vibe. Designers such as Diane von Furstenberg softened their edges, while other designers took inspiration from the 1960s dandies renaissance and Warholian references at Chriz Benz and Marc Jacobs. Alexander Wang however, featured stripes in a whole new dramatic way with graphic cutouts and slashed garments revealing stripes of flesh.
This season for spring/summer 2013, designers showed us it’s about time to think short. Balenciaga and Chanel were among those trend setters that showed us how to do cropped jackets–ruffled skirts at the former and a touch of neat little shifts beneath at the latter. Guy Laroche also utilized the cropping effect with cropped white trousers and cropped matching bandeau top. In Paris, Alexander McQueen showed us why cropped trousers are the way forward: to once again show off his stunningly creative shoes. However, Suno, Cushnie et Ochs, Jonathan Simkai and Timo Weiland took New York runways asunder, with bombshell crop tops and mismatched girly shirts complete with waist defining direction, à la femme fatale.
Get ready to shine next spring and summer thanks to Todd Lynn, Anne Valerie Hash, Jean Paul Gaultier and Viktor & Rolf, who were inspired by mirrors and mosaic glass for their collection, and Louis Vuitton, where the smallest sequins ever produced were used. Manish Arora payed tribute to India with ornate embrodiery and shimmery metallic gold leggings. Burberry revealed glimmering tops and metallic gold textures in the form of trenches and jumpsuits, staying in the bounds of the all-encompassing, cease-changing staple of flattering the female form. Falguni and Shane Peacock embellished their highly detailed fabrics with crystals, conceptual laser cuts and glass helmets relaying a cyber couture look of “2001: A Space Odyssey”. This year, embellishment and metallic sheen isn’t just a party-season thing.
Absolutely delicious, chiffon, and creamy to bright yellows were one of the more realistic trends that could wind up in your closet next summer. This season, majority of designers served up some shade of yellow in their collection. For Carlos Miele it was airy fabrics of animal print and taxi cab yellow trenches reminiscent of Boy George and the Culture Club at Alexandre Herchcovitch, for Naeem Khan it was canary yellow highlights to contrast serene white and ornate embellishments. But designers like Jenny Packham took it to glamorously delicate heights with Swarvoski crystals and brazenly deep center v-slits. Bora Aksu created ensembles to mimic the majesty of the late queen for London’s Fashion Week. Equipped with solid yellow palettes for his dresses.
MESH & SHEER
With light fabrics, and light colors galore, (and black), transparency is inevitable, yet uber chic, and the Spring Summer 2013 collections whole-heartedly embraced it as seen at Peachoo + Krejberg. The summery feel and lightness of the collections overall is mainly represented by the fabrics used– silk satins, chiffon, and organza dominated the runways in all shapes and forms. From Timo Weiland’s sports couture to risqué ensembles at Jason Wu, transparency is key. More demure, lady like expressions of sheer also graced the catwalk at Cushnie et Ochs perfectly materializing the light, feminine and minimal mood of this season. Draping and sheer textiles accented Katie Gallagher’s New York collection, effusing a demure femininity that is categorically timeless.
This trend, what some may call the iconic, Helmut Newton Effect, or for the less modest, erotic S&M Effect, isn’t going anywhere soon. This high contrast look, seen at BCBG Max Azria, featured leather harnesses and black lace detail for the ultimate femme fetale recall. This seasons, leather separates are light enough to give people the best of both words – the functional elements of fall/winter and conventionality of spring/summer. Like they showcased in Jason Wu and Herve Leger’s runway show, body-con bandage dresses and leather harnesses are this season’s 50 Shades of Grey signature look.
In London, silhouettes at Dans La Vie include a mutated, half-leather / half-plastic blazer with chaps. Pam Hogg, also presented bandage inspired looks, her signature patchwork and futuristic catsuits accompanied with helmet-like headwear and accessorized with latex knee-high boots were definitely a crowd thriller. In Milan, Dsquared2’s aesthetic came full circle in different forms of leather, whips and chains nostalgic of the ‘punk rock’ era.
– Jacquelyn Rawlings for The Untitled Magazine