HOUSE OF GILLES UNVEILS A CINEMATIC COUTURE COLLECTION ROOTED IN OLD HOLLYWOOD GLAMOUR
House of Gilles presented its latest couture collection in New York this April, offering a refined exploration of craftsmanship, cinematic storytelling, and historical influence. Captured by longtime collaborator Ruven Afanador and featuring models Christina Kruse and Veronika Vilim, the collection reflects the house’s ongoing dialogue between fashion and image-making.
Drawing from the visual language of early Hollywood, the collection references the elegance of the 1920s and 1930s while maintaining a contemporary sensibility. The influence of Marlene Dietrich emerges through sculptural silhouettes and a sense of controlled drama, contrasted by the fluid softness associated with Carole Lombard. This balance—between structure and movement, precision and ease—defines the core of the collection.
At the center of the designs is a meticulous attention to detail. Hand-cut organza feathers are layered into trompe l’oeil compositions, creating textures that feel both intricate and organic. Signature pleating enhances the garments’ movement, reinforcing a sense of lightness despite their architectural construction. Each element is produced within the house’s New York atelier, where traditional couture techniques remain integral to the process.
Adornment plays a significant role this season, extending beyond accessory into narrative device. Veils trace the face, introducing a subtle tension between concealment and exposure, while sculptural headpieces—ranging from feathered forms to floral constructions—add dimension and height to the silhouettes. These elements are designed not only to complement the garments but to transform them, shifting mood and perspective.
“Through the years, there has always been a very photographic approach to adornment,” said Gilles Mendel. “A veil across the face, a feather catching the light—it adds another dimension to the clothes. It transforms the image and brings a different emotion.”
Developed in close collaboration with Afanador, the collection considers composition, light, and movement as essential components of the design process. The garments are conceived as both physical objects and visual narratives, reflecting a broader approach to couture as immersive and expressive.
Each piece is constructed by a team of European-trained artisans, underscoring the house’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship. As Chloé Mendel Corgan noted, “Everything is made by hand, inside the atelier. There is a closeness to the process. These pieces allow for something more expressive—something that elevates the look and creates a complete moment.”
In an era increasingly defined by speed and digital production, the collection reflects a renewed focus on process, intention, and the enduring relevance of handcraft. House of Gilles continues to position couture not only as fashion, but as an evolving form of artistic expression.
