From cheerful streetwear to charming classics, the Spring/Summer 2020 collections presented at NYFW by this generation of risk-taking creatives are pushing the boundaries of ready-to-wear onto a new arena; one without rules. Some of our favorite this season include Laurence & Chico, Kaimin, and Threeasfour.
LAURENCE & CHICO
Laurence & Chico’s third collection ever was a continuity of their signature runway shows: a vogueing extravaganza with models of every gender and skin color. Another signature characteristic of the rising brand is their pearled denim fabric, which has been a recurring theme since the brand’s inception. For Summer/Spring 2020, the collection included their signature fabric but this time in the form of accessories: kitten heels, giant hats, and mini suitcases.
VICTORIA HAYES
Victoria Hayes’ Spring/Summer 2020 collection was one of the first shows of NYFW, and she made sure it was a proclamation of her brand’s tasteful aesthetic. Having launched in 2016, Hayes has dressed the likes of Lady Gaga, Cardi B and Alicia Keys. Her first runway collection was an ode to SPACEJAM, the iconic 90s basketball movie, which the designer says was part of her growing years. The looks were sporty but elegant – tracksuits were embellished and bomber jackets came in high-shine glossed fabrics.
CHROMAT
The Spring/Summer 2020 Chromat collection celebrated the brand’s 10-year anniversary by referencing some of their iconic past collections. Known for proclaiming inclusion, the show was as diverse in theme as the casting. Buoyant beach wear and athleisure pieces were modeled by girls of all sizes and genders, including a pregnant woman and transgender models.
CONG TRI
Cong Tri knows how to make a girl feel ethereal and poised. His Spring/Summer 2020 runway show gave us an excuse to plan our next glam outing. Building on the first season’s theme of red-carpet worthy looks, Cong Tri’s SS 2020 array carries drama and romanticism. His summer color scheme is stimulating and vigorous: mini taffeta dresses in neons are elevated with grand detailing: trains and bat sleeves that give the classic looks a youthful mood.
I LOVE PRETTY
I love Pretty’s Summer 2020 runway show was injected with Rock & Roll – paired with femininity and glitz. Touching on the bondage-wear craze, models strutted latex accessories; peek-a-boo leather leg harnesses, cut-out corsets, and arm cuffs. There were some graphic statements like a t-shirt that read “Don’t look at me like that” and a metal belt that was emblazoned with “24 hours online.” Touching on the recurring 2020 corset trend seen in various shows, I Love Pretty’s rendition came in the form of a body brace.
HOGAN MCLAUGHLING
Hogan McLaughlin’s clean and sharp aesthetic was visible at his Summer/Spring 2020 show. Whether as a contrasting detail or full look, Black was a recurring color. Jackets were structured at the shoulders and dresses had an architectural feel. Color blocking and clean pleats were also a key element, joined with shiny black latex details: gloves, arm sleeves and belts.
VFILES
VFiles shut down Barclays Center once again. The fashion collective known for putting young designers on the map presented several collections for Spring/Summer 2020. A notable rising brand Didu, who has recently dressed pop stars Ariana Grande and Rosalia, was part of their Summer 2020 collective show. Known for their monumental fashion events, the collections were presented at the famous concert arena Barclays center. The winning designers were joined on the runway by Rico Nasty, Brooke Candy, Erika Jayne, YG and more.
THREEASFOUR
Threeasfour can be put in the art category. Toying with the idea of nature as clothing, their Summer/Spring 2020 collection was full of curvilinear shapes in organic forms, creating a show worthy of an art exhibit. Fabrics had a life of their own – there was a look that resembled a leaf covering the body as a dress. “People are more conscious of plants; they understand now that plants have feelings,” said Asfour. “With this collection, we wanted to celebrate plants.”
LAQUAN SMITH
Laquan Smith wants her girls to feel sexy, feminine and powerful. Opening his Spring/Summer 2020 show with a mini transparent latex dress in cheetah print on the supermodel Elsa Hosk, the rest of the show followed in harmony: body-con dresses in snake latex, hip-hugging slit pencil skirts, mini two-piece sporty sets in snake print. By the end there were full-on denim looks made up of corsets and cowboy chaps in both – denim and faux cow fur. The whole collection was meant to have a rodeo-cowboy feel – models wore cowboy hats with almost every look.
KAIMIN
Kaimin Spring/Summer 2020 was a transcendental experience of victorian-inspired goth looks in mostly black latex and lace – and there was a dress made of both: lace over red latex. Models wore their hair wrapped around their face and neck held by a chocker paired with red eyeshadow, and hand accessories resembled a witch’s hand. Jean looks were elevated with cut-outs and thick fringes, declaring denim as the new summer staple.
LOU DALLAS
Mixing art elements and formal-but-fun workwear, the clothes at Lou Dallas Spring/Summer 2020 were eerily constructed. Slashed and styled with high intricacy, the regalia was out-the-box thinking; a cool, hip preppy teacher’s summer closet. The collection was made up of knee-length pencil skirts under shorter skirts, color-blocked slip dresses over powder blue leggings and plaids with ruffle details – women at work attire. Print clashing and color-blocking were concurrent themes: leopard leggings under a blue and white striped A-line skirt was part of the closing look.
VAQUERA
“It’s mostly about being let down in different ways: on Valentine’s Day, by the fashion industry—by New York. We’ve learned it’s empowering to be frustrated and disheartened,” designer Patric DiCaprio said to Vogue before the Vaquera Spring/Summer 2020 show. Playing with the camp aesthetic that has infiltrated the fashion scene, the collection included a T-shirt slogan that read “In Loving Memory of New York”, supersized trench coats and drop-crotch pants in pin-stripe print, oddly distributed volume in skirts, and towards the end, a heart-shaped pillow as a dress.
BARRAGAN
The mini and maxi dresses presented at the Barragan Spring 2020 show were mostly made from see-through mesh and jersey fabrics – nipples and underwear were in style and very much visible under the slashed tops, and rouched mini and maxi dresses. The last looks had zebra print distributed throughout, including a zebra keyhole top. The keyhole element that has become a motif of the Barragan brand was seen in five looks in this collection, including a rendition in the polo-shirt version of look two.
SUZANNE RAE
Suzanne Rae 2020 was a mishmash of separates that can be reworked around each other and around every gender and skin-color. “The future of fashion is nonbinary, and I really enjoy opening up our exercises to that,” Suzanne Rae said. Presented in a fun, unconventional program, the show included performances by Brooklyn pop artists CJCJ and Verduch, and a dance was choreographed while models walked.