Last in the month-long line of fashion weeks is Paris, arguably the most artistic out of New York, London, and Milan. The city’s in-your-face collections will no doubt dominate fashion editorials in the coming months (see: Balenciaga’s platform Crocs and Chanel’s PVC thigh high boots), but the Paris runways also showed some surprisingly wearable yet statement-making separates for spring 2018. Read on for the scoop.
Runway darling Dries Van Noten showed a deliciously uplifting spring collection full of graphic pastel prints, sheer slips fit for a 90’s supermodel, and playful crystal embellishments. There was a piece for everyone among Noten’s silk scarves, embroidered ankle boots, and sequined bombers that could easily be taken from day to night.
Newly-appointed creative director Clare Waight-Keller’s Givenchy debut looked to the design house’s archive of sketches for inspiration. After studying the label’s history and meeting with Hubert de Givenchy himself she cited the shoulder, as well as archival graphic prints (clovers and animal motifs from 1961 and 1981, to be exact) as her starting points. The results? Bold red-and-navy-printed minidresses with ruffled shoulders, sharply-tailored and heavily shoulder-padded outerwear, and slouchy heeled cowboy boots.
Karl Lagerfeld took tweed on vacation with Chanel‘s latest collection. The house’s classic woven jackets were updated in bright blues and yellows, and models walked the runway ready for rain or shine in clear PVC hats, thigh-high boots, and ponchos. The ensembles effortlessly melded the sixties with Instagrammable street-style edge.
Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri expanded on her feminist sensibilities with a collection that recalled the louche charm of Nouvelle Vague starlets. Breton stripes were printed with the phrase “WHY HAVE THERE BEEN NO GREAT WOMEN ARTISTS?”, knee high boots were knit and featured a walkable chunky heel, and easy t-shirt dresses glittered with sequined illustrations. Despite the collection’s play with a diverse range of techniques and fabrics including multi-hued denim, motocross-esque black and white checks, and mirrored disco ball minidresses, each ensemble stayed true to the revolutionary and effortlessly whimsical spirit of Paris in the sixties.
One of the season’s most buzzed-about collections, Balenciaga‘s latest offerings included tartan separates, designer Demna Gvasalia’s signature sock-boots printed with dollar and euro bills, and billowing yet structured silhouettes applied to a selection of outerwear. And no, we haven’t forgotten spring 2018’s hottest ugly shoe—models walked the runway in ankle-length dresses paired with towering, platformed Crocs, the world’s most reviled clog.
Nicolas Ghesquière updated Rococo textiles and silhouettes for the 21st-century Louis Vuitton woman. Brocade frock coats were paired with running shorts, bustles became sculptural hip-accentuating skirts that ended above the knee rather than at the floor like their cumbersome 17th-century counterparts, and decollettage-bearing bodices were chopped short and layered over lightweight dresses. Ghesquière’s luxe Stranger Things tee, which he paired with sheer pale pink trousers, is sure to be a hit in magazines and on the street this coming spring.