The highly-anticipated Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018-2019 show returned to Paris this July. Many designers were inspired by the past year’s historical advances for women, the royal wedding and other current issues for their latest collections. Check below for highlights from the shows and presentations.
Maison Margiela’s John Galliano created an highly conceptual collection for Couture fashion week. The color-infused collection was characterized by layered elements consisting of everything from large winter coats to nylon hosiery. Garments were treated as malleable objects here as one article of clothing was layered onto another. The collection centered around the idea of insulating one’s self in a separate world away from the troubled real one. Also, inspired by his young assistants and interns, Galliano incorporated virtual reality headsets and ankle contraptions with iPhones filming the runway to emphasize the presence of technology in our lives.
For Chanel’s Couture fashion show, Karl Lagerfeld drew inspiration from his first arrival to Paris at the age of eighteen during the 1950s. The designs for this collection reflect a post-war city that was neglected and dark. The collection was characterized by long skirts with thigh-high zippers and delicate, sparkling embroideries. The chiffon and tweed material, which consisted of varying gray hues, resembled gloomy clouds and Parisian stone.
VIKTOR & ROLF
Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren celebrated 25 years of working together in this year’s Fall/Winter 2018 collection. Victor & Rolf‘s collection was a creative compilation of their most memorable designs, whitewashed and rejuvenated. The fresh collection included a recreation of their famous 2015 tulle dress with holes, their statement “No” trench coat from 2008 and their memorable linen with pillows dress.
For Fall 2018 Couture, Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri focused on subtle elegance. Drawing inspiration from the historic events that occurred for women this past year, the dresses reflected serious attitudes and much-needed spirit of women who want change. The rose, black, navy and nude color palette along with the satin ankle-length dresses, cashmere suits and stylish tuxedo pants all meant business.
Valentino closed Couture fashion week with a dreamy collection inspired by Greek mythology, medieval armor and 18th century art. The dramatic collection included capes with intricate designs matched with trousers and Bermuda shorts. Also included were heavenly gowns made of solid, bright colors. The latest designs sparkled with rhinestones, sequins and infinite gold accents.
Artistic director Clare Waight Keller tapped into Givenchy’s famous design of Audrey Hepburn’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress for inspiration for their show. The designer of Meghan Markle’s iconic wedding dress is not only the first woman appointed to Givenchy after a long line of male artistic directors, but is also the first to honor Hubert de Givenchy’s legacy following his death earlier this year.
Fendi expanded their non-fur designs in this year’s show, following Gucci, Michael Kors and Versace’s proclamation that they would go fur-less. Fendi focused on creating garments that resembled real fur, but were made with complete non-fur materials. For instance, by using chiffon stitched very closely together and carefully placed sequins, Fendi was able to create the illusion of fur on several pieces. Although Fendi still incorporated real fur in their collection, the exploration of new techniques that follow the fashion industry’s pull away from real fur is a step in the right direction.