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PARIS HAUTE COUTURE WEEK FALL/WINTER 2022 HIGHLIGHTS FROM JEAN PAUL GAULTIER TO IRIS VAN HERPEN

Featured in photo: Iris van Herpen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Olivier Rousteing, and Maria Grazia Chiuri. 

With the continual rise in popularity of couture fashion, Paris Haute Couture Week Fall/Winter 2022 was no disappointment. The couture week took place from July 3rd to July 7th, 2022 in Paris with digital, live stream, and in-person shows. Many infamous and emerging couture designers showcased innovative collections, impacting the fashion trajectory. From vintage to futuristic to nature-themed, here are some of the event highlights!

Photos by Isidore Montag.

Christian Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fall/Winter 2022-23 haute couture collection was showcased in Paris at the Musée Rodin. The collection included garments of silk, cotton, and yarn to encapsulate creation, life, and nature. Beige with interruptions of black and blue hues were predominately the colors of the long, flowy dresses. Patchwork, braids, and lace were key components of the collection, all centering around the tree of life: the main point of the collection’s inspiration. Trench coats layered on top of dresses, an effective juxtaposition to the freedom of the long dresses. Chiuri drew inspiration from the set designer, Olesia Trofymenko, who created “The Flow” piece for the show. Life’s freedom and nature connect to the value of human life in the newest collection from Dior. 

“Clothing that isn’t content to shine only under the chandeliers of a gala or party, but that proudly displays its personality in the light of day.” – Maria Grazia Chiuri

Courtesy of Balenciaga.

Balenciaga

Demna Gvasalia, the creative director of Balenciaga, showcased his second couture collection for the House at Paris Haute Couture. A futuristic neoprene theme contrasted with vintage touches, morphing a collection for the now while looking into the future. Second-skin, body tight body-tightdresses and tailored jackets mixed with aluminum and futuristic materials. Demna also focused on sustainability by working with a Japanese manufacturer using a limestone technique. Beyond the ground-breaking looks of the collection, the ground-breaking celebrities wore them fearlessly. From Nicole Kidman to Dua Lipa to Bella Hadid, the bold, sleek collection was accompanied by global stars. 

“The lineup started with very otherworldly, almost futuristic neoprene looks, which was my idea of interpreting gazar in 2022.” – Demna Gvasalia

Photos by Isidore Montag.

Jean Paul Gaultier

The highly anticipated show from Olivier Rousteing stunned the audience with his collection, a tribute to Jean Paul Gaultier. 

“So he [Jean Paul Gaultier] was ahead of his time about freedom of expression. Today, we talk about inclusivity, we talk about diversity, we talk about breaking boundaries, we talk about no binaries, no gender. Obviously, Jean Paul was the first one to do it.” – Olivier Rousteing

The show started with 13 male models wearing re-designed prints from Gaultier’s 1994/95 show. Beyond the ground-breaking connection to the past collection, Rousteing found inspiration in his Ethiopian descent by specific jewelry and patterns encapsulated in a streetwear design. Feathers, heavy stitching, and baggy denim all fit the theme of Rousteing’s collection. Furthermore, while the collection was designed before the overturning of Roe v. Wade, the collection included the second-skin dresses of two pregnant models, a loud stance on the women’s reproduction fight in America.

Photos by Filippo Fior. 

Fendi

Kim Jones’ newest collection for Fendi breathed light, elegance, and detail. With various Japanese and Italian techniques, the subtle details of the collection did not go unnoticed, as each piece was crafted to perfection. As metallic and long single-color dresses paired with unique design and innovative formulation, Jones’ collection felt refreshing.

“A tale of three cities — Kyoto, Rome and Paris — and a conversation between them.” – Kim Jones

Photos by Daniele Oberrauch.  

Iris van Herpen 

Iris van Herpen transcended her fashion collection with a futuristic, digital approach. With the Microsoft collaboration, the runaway featured mixed mediums of digital effects with physical models and pieces. The collection included the lightest colors seen yet from Iris van Herpen, with beiges and whites to contrast with the digital tone of the show. Models walked alongside digital avatars, creating a transformative experience. Accents of dark colors mixed with the long, slender looks of the collection created a haunting vision of ghosts and inner questioning. The new digital age has been brought to the runaway in an unforgettable, mind-boggling collection.

“The collection is very future-oriented, inspired by post-humanism, by transforming identities, the metaverse, but also hyperreality, where digital reality and physical reality are becoming indistinguishable.” – Iris van Herpen

Photos by Filippo Fior. 

Viktor and Rolf

Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting’s collection embraced the strict, firm mold with an innovative touch. The suits were pointedly tailored, elevating above the shoulders and ears, protecting the head. The combination of prints with the blunt structure of the suits created a powerful surge for the collection. Later in the show, the extremity of the structure ebbed back, as the tuxedo jackets and ruffle blouses finished the collection softly. The theme of toxic masculinity was an inspiration, as the designers aimed to change masculinity to make it fit, just like their designs.

“We wanted something rigorous, something rigid, so we looked to men’s tailoring… We wanted a new silhouette.” – Rolf Snoeren

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