SCHIAPARELLI: FASHION BECOMES ART OPENS AT THE V&A, TRACING A SURREALIST LEGACY FROM THE 1920S TO TODAY

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Portrait of Elsa Schiaparelli, by Man Ray, 1933, © 2025 Man Ray 2015 Trust. DACS, London. Photo Collection SFMOMA. The Helen Crocker Russell and William H. and Ethel W. Crocker Family Funds

The Victoria and Albert Museum unveiled “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” on March 28, 2026, marking the first UK exhibition dedicated to Maison Schiaparelli. Spanning nearly a century of fashion history, the exhibition explores the enduring influence of Elsa Schiaparelli—one of the most innovative designers of the 20th century—and the continued evolution of the house under creative director Daniel Roseberry.

“For me, dress designing is not a profession but an art,” Schiaparelli once stated—a philosophy that anchors the exhibition’s curatorial approach.

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Evening coat, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau, 1937, London, England, Image courtesy V&A, © 2025 ADAGP DACS Comite Cocteau, Paris. Photograph © Emil Larsson

Bringing together more than 400 objects, including 100 garments and 50 artworks, the exhibition presents a comprehensive look at Schiaparelli’s boundary-defying practice. Visitors encounter her most iconic designs alongside works by artists such as Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso, Man Ray, and Jean Cocteau—highlighting the designer’s deep engagement with surrealism and her collaborative approach to fashion.

Among the standout pieces are the 1938 Skeleton dress and Tears dress, as well as the now-famous shoe hat developed with Dalí—objects that challenge conventional ideas of beauty and function. These works position Schiaparelli not only as a couturier but as a cultural force operating at the intersection of art, performance, and design.

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Skeleton Dress, designed by Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí, 1938, Image courtesy V&A © 2025 Salvador Dali, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí, DACS. Photograph © Emil Larsson

The exhibition is structured across four thematic sections, beginning with “Designing the Modern Wardrobe,” which traces Schiaparelli’s early career from her 1927 Paris debut to her rise as a leading designer for modern women. Her introduction of unconventional silhouettes—such as trouser suits for women—and her experimentation with textiles and embellishments marked a significant shift in fashion’s visual language.

“Creative Constellations” examines her collaborations with surrealist artists during the 1920s and 1930s, a period when Paris was a hub for avant-garde experimentation. These partnerships resulted in some of her most radical designs, blurring the lines between wearable fashion and conceptual art.

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Schiaparelli evening dresses, photograph, by Cecil Beaton, commissioned by French Vogue, 1936, France, Image courtesy The Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The third section, “Beyond Paris,” highlights Schiaparelli’s global expansion, including the opening of her London salon in 1933 and her work in film and theatre. Her designs were worn by leading figures of the era, including Marlene Dietrich and Mae West, cementing her influence beyond couture into popular culture.

The final section, “A Golden Thread,” connects Schiaparelli’s legacy to the present day through Daniel Roseberry’s work. Since his appointment in 2019, Roseberry has reinterpreted the house’s surrealist DNA through sculptural silhouettes and bold couture techniques, dressing contemporary figures such as Ariana Grande and Dua Lipa.

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Model Awar Odhiang in Schiaparelli haute couture autumn/winter 2024, Image Kuba Dabrowski, courtesy The V&A, Patrimoine Schiaparelli, Paris

The exhibition also places renewed emphasis on Schiaparelli as a female entrepreneur navigating and reshaping the fashion industry in the early 20th century. Her ability to merge creativity with commerce—while maintaining a distinctly experimental voice—continues to resonate in today’s cultural landscape.

On view through November 8, 2026, “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” positions the designer’s work within a broader artistic and historical context, reinforcing her role in redefining what fashion can be—and what it can communicate.

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Designer Elsa Schiaparelli wearing black silk dress with crocheted collar of her own design and a turban, photograph by Fredrich Baker, Vogue, 1940, Image courtesy The V&A, Condé Nast via Getty Images
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