BORA AKSU Romantic, yet cutting edge, Bora Aksu sent out a collection this fall that he described as “embracing the innocence, angst, and confidence of late adolescence”. The colors on the tops were a beautiful mixture of pale grays, baby blues, blush, lilac, and beige, which formed the innocent, charming look. However, to give more…
CHARLIE LE MINDU Religious mysteries, black magic and the occult formed the focus of French celebrity hairdresser, Charlie le Mindu’s ‘off schedule’ London show. Extravagant hair sculptures that exhibited diamond encrusted crucifixes, an open faberge egg containing a miniature ballerina, stole the show. On the whole, this collection was more subtle, wearable, and sophisticated than…
CHRISTOPHER KANE In the designer’s words, his collection was about ‘a deliquent teenager’. Prim black lace, paneled patent leather dresses and star-burst embroideries that assimilated the attributes of Priscilla Presley, a stunning patent leather flower embroidered biker jacket thats form is becoming a Christopher Kane staple were the main veins of the collection. Currently designing…
ELLIOT FRIEZE The Welsh designer debuted his Fall 2010 collection at London Fashion Week, showing signature British classics with hints of modernity through elegant draping and creating timeless sophistication with clean silhouettes and classic tailoring. Using fabrics such as English wools, cashmere and Napa, Elliot Frieze has delicately encrusted semi-precious Tiger’s eye quartz upon the…
HERMIONE DE PAULA She won the AW 2010-11 Merit Award from the Fashion Vauxhall “ones to watch” and with very good reason. As seen in her most recent collection, Hermione de Paula displayed a mere optical illusion with her overstated hourglass silhouettes and sharp angles. The use of loud patterns and fabrics in these ruffly,…
HUSSEIN CHALAYAN – FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS DIRECTED BY INDIRA CESARINE PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEOGRAPHY BY EARNEST AREGAL SALGOT & DANIEL HERENDI FOR XXXX MAGAZINE TEXT BY KATIE THURBER, EMMA WATKINSON & JENNY BLUMENTHAL
JENNY PACKHAM Everything from fun, frilly cocktail to overtly large-bowed Kimono-style frocks to dramatic floor-length gowns–Jenny Packham seems to have something to fit the mood of the modern day woman wherever her next hot soiree might be. Bold and beaded, sparkly-sequin paillettes, plunging necklines…the list could go on for days. Packham created an eye-catching color…
JONATHAN SAUNDERS Bursting onto the London Fashion Week scene seven years ago, Jonathan Saunders has been known for his intricately crafted graphic prints with a hint of London’s “Swinging Sixties”. His pieces tend to have a very precise print designed to work with the overall shape of the garment, making each garment a work of…
JULIEN MACDONALD Sophisticated outerwear and suggestive lingerie inspired attire were the mainstays at this impeccably styled show. A day and night rhythm was achieved through Julien Macdonald’s mix of knits and slinky evening wear contrasted by the luxurious fur-trimmed parkas and gray flannel jodhpurs. Cable stitched tops, short draped dresses, cobweb knit shirts and plissed…
MARK FAST Courageously leaping away from the mainstream, Mark Fast featured three plus-sized models in his Fall 2010 runway show. Sticking to his convictions, Fast lost his show stylist over the inclusion of plus sized models and will surely be the center of a media frenzy where he may find himself accused of stirring up…
MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF Branching out into romanticism, Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff broke their groove of black and navy deconstructed streetwear and presented a collection popping with color. Flowered dresses, lace veils and tinselly embroidery were piled into this visually assaulting show. Bias-cut Hollywood gowns, painted biker jackets, and stacks of bangle bracelets were a refreshing…
SASS & BIDE Sass and Bide put out a collection with the African aesthetic quality to it by the use of detailing and shaping in the fabrics and embellishments. Many of the looks carried gold and silver, intricate embellishments within the garment, or sometimes making up an entire shirt or legging. The colors were kept…
AKRIS Sleek lines and elongated silhouettes were masterfully executed this season at the Akris show. Ruched brown and black silk jackets topped taper legged trousers tucked into platform leather boots. Printed dresses and skirts swept all the way to the floor with delicate draping, while a purple sequined mini-dress was the answer to the perfect cocktail…
ANDREA CREWS Bold patterns, over-sized garments, and deconstructed street wear seemed to be what embodied Parisian fashion collective, Andrea Crews. The brand unveiled its Fall/Winter 2011 collection in it’s offbeat take on a typical runway show by having models dance and strike a pose (one by one) to a choreographed routine, much to the pleasure…
BARBARA BUI The Barbara Bui woman will certainly stay warm this winter with her distressed leather and suede jackets lined with sheepskin and fur. Underneath the heavy outerwear facade lay gorgeous knitwear with intricate screen prints, cotton and jersey dresses, and a stunning one-shoulder structured dress. Outdoor-casual looks were finished off with fur lined winter booties,…
CACHAREL The latest designer to take control of this design house, Cedric Charlier, gave a much needed revamp to the classic french brand Cacharel. Finding inspiration in floral prints, mini and exaggerated rosette patterns graced beautiful silk dresses set against a harsh black background, aiding in lending a slightly more sophisticated feel to the collection. Over-sized wool…
CELINE Textured outerwear, sleek leather tops, cropped ankle trousers, and riding boots were the mainstays at the Celine show. A tweed jacket finished with leather trimmings is sure to be a Fall “must-have” draped over the curve-hugging leather shirt and matching riding boots. Or the elongated textured sweater-vest atop a sheer bodysuit and miniskirt would be…
CHAPURIN Russian designer Igor Chapurin made a bold statement this season with his brightly colored fur jackets. While the majority of Chapurin’s collection consisted of varying black fabrics in artfully draped and purposefully architectural shapes, it was the vibrant purple, yellow and white jackets that stood out like solar flairs against these pieces. The bright white of…
DAMIR DOMA Croatian born, German based fashion designer Damir Doma showed his debut womenswear line this Fall 2010/11 season on the Parisian catwalks. The designer is known for his menswear line but stated that making this transition to cater also to women is something he always envisioned doing, because the elements from his menswear line could be…
FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented a chic ready-to-wear collection in a cool-toned color palette of whites, blues and periwinkle. Sheath dresses with fringe embellishments, fur hoods, snow goggles and gorgeous embellished boots graced the runway. Not only is Baptista a well established clothing designer but his unique accessories and beautifully crafted…
