
The January 2025 menswear shows in Paris and Milan brought forth a striking blend of classic elegance and daring innovation. Designers explored themes ranging from nostalgia to sustainability, showcasing individual style, eclecticism, and the transformative power of fashion. Here’s a rundown of the top 10 collections that stood out on the prestigious runways.
1. Louis Vuitton (Paris)
Pharrell Williams’ collaboration with streetwear icon Nigo set the tone for Paris Fashion Week with a collection celebrating “friendship for life.” Combining luxury fabrics with workwear-inspired silhouettes, the collection redefined casual elegance. The models strutted across the runway, adorned in chic tailored pieces juxtaposed with relaxed streetwear elements, bringing together craftsmanship and fun.
2. Dior Men (Paris)
Kim Jones’ collection for Dior Men was an exercise in refined historical transformation. Drawing from Christian Dior’s 1954 “Ligne H,” the designs seamlessly blended couture influences with menswear. Fluid silhouettes, including capes and opera coats, added an et
hereal quality to this collection, which reimagined masculinity through sophisticated sensuality.
3. Prada (Milan)
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented an eclectic collection that emphasized instinctual, emotion-led dressing. The mix of primitive faux furs, pajama sets, and cowboy boots spoke to a liberated form of personal expression. The show captured the spirit of individuality, exploring the intersection of comfort and style in bold, unexpected ways.
4. Lanvin (Paris)
British designer Peter Copping made his anticipated debut at Lanvin, showcasing his first-ever men’s and womenswear collections shown together. This collection reflected Copping’s unique vision, balancing modern aesthetics with Lanvin’s legacy of luxury. The pieces conveyed a sense of understated sophistication, with clean lines and a refined approach to tailoring that perfectly captured the essence of Parisian chic.
5. Rick Owens (Paris)
Rick Owens’ “Concordians” collection was an introspective journey inspired by his retreats to the industrial town of Concordia, Italy. With oversized collars, cropped tops, and flowing coats, the collection had an eerie, alien-like quality, enhanced by materials such as bleached alligator and chain-link leather. This collection balanced Owens’ signature dark aesthetic with versatile designs suitable for travel and work, reflecting his minimalist philosophy of “depending on less things but making them as supernatural as possible.” Sustainability was also key, with eco-friendly wool and water-saving denim taking center stage.
6. EGONLAB (Paris)
EGONLAB’s “S4LEM” collection, inspired by the Salem witch trials, used esoteric symbolism to explore contemporary themes of exclusion and resistance. Leather fringes and sculptural dresses embodied the fight for freedom, while the color palette of black, purple, and red invoked a mystical energy. This collection was a poetic and bold critique of societal marginalization through innovative tailoring and textures.
7. Issey Miyake (Paris)
The “IM MEN” collection revitalized Issey Miyake’s iconic design philosophy through an innovative exploration of fabric, form, and function. Building on the brand’s iconic “a piece of cloth” concept, the collection showcased cutting-edge techniques that seamlessly blend traditional Japanese craftsmanship with modern technological approaches. From plant-based fibers to innovative draping techniques, the garments showcased a marriage of sustainability and avant-garde design.
8. Dolce & Gabbana (Milan)
Dolce & Gabbana’s “Paparazzi”-themed show was a visual feast of glamour and drama, celebrating the allure of celebrity culture. The collection embraced high-octane red carpet style with luxurious faux furs, sequined blazers, and tailored suits, drawing inspiration from the world of celebrity and the spectacle of the paparazzi.
9. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy (Paris)
Charles Jeffrey’s “I Am a Product” collection was a bold exploration of defiance and survival, inspired by the decadence of Victorian fin de siècle and Weimar Berlin’s cabarets. Through eccentric and whimsical designs, the collection transformed homoeroticism into a symbol of spiritual struggle. The line between rebellion and artistry was blurred with oversized silhouettes, twisted jerseys, and playful accessories.
10. Walter Van Beirendonck (Paris)
Walter Van Beirendonck’s eccentric “NEW” collection stood out for its surrealism and social commentary. The runway featured models with prosthetic fingers, oversized bowler hats, and retro-inspired suits, while playful motifs like aliens and peace symbols made strong political statements and served as part of a broader message about outsiders and difference. The collection was a theatrical and vibrant expression of the designer’s unique vision.
These top 10 collections from Milan and Paris have set the stage for menswear trends for Fall/Winter 2025, blending history, innovation, and craftsmanship. From Rick Owens’ industrial-inspired minimalism to EGONLAB’s critique of societal norms, the shows reflected the growing push for individuality and sustainability in menswear.