“Subtraction” was the only word used by designer Yohji Yamamoto to describe his F/W 2016 collection in Paris. Full of flowing fabrics, full-length layers, plunging necklines and lean cuts, Yamamoto created a line of exquisite modern simplicity. Raw stitching and button detailing also added to the collection’s smart sensibility and timeless feel. When asked if the collection was masculine or feminine, he replied, “I don’t know. I prefer mannish. But if this collection is feminine, that’s all right. I don’t care.” Models also donned blackened lips by Pat McGrath and hair extensions by Eugene Souleiman giving them the look of animated, goth geishas. Slim fitting dresses that hinted at the female form, layered with tailored jackets and basic pants, all in neutrals, displayed the collection’s subtle sexiness. To close the show Yamamoto sent models down the runway with words of wisdom, wearing black jackets with white brushstrokes carrying poetic phrases like “Lord, I’m not happy here”; “I will be back soon” and “Stop me before I F–k again.” Not overdone, but sensually simplistic, Yamamoto’s line was a modern confirmation that less is in fact, more.
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