ANTONIO AZZUOLO Azzuolo takes us to the Wild West for Autumn/ Winter 2010 with all-American cowboy hats, handmade blazers and cashmere trousers. Horse motif knits made in Peru paired with tapered tailored trousers give a sophisticated nod to the men of the ranch whilst the gray suiting, silver shoes and flashes of burnt orange throughout…
BLAAK Aaron Sharif and Sachiko Okada are the design duo who created Blaak back in 1998 as a contemplation on the emotions around the color black (hence the label). The latest Collection stood out in stark black and white with inspiration drawn from the church. Robe-inspired proportions gave an interesting take on minimal design and an…
DAMIR DOMA Croatian born Damir Doma is proving to be one of the most talented up and coming designers to watch in the next few seasons. After working for Raf Simons and Dirk Schonberger, Doma decided it was time to open his own self entitled line in 2006 which is proving to be a wise decision.…
JUUN.J Korean designer Juun. J showcased a very structured collection blending vivid colors amidst a soothing sea of grey and black. Billowing sleeves with pronounced hoods and tactfully tailored trousers gave balanced proportions to the collection. Asymmetrical cuts paired with subtle prints on rich fabrics added length and volume to this accessible yet innovative collection. –…
KENZO Taking a cue from previous generations designer Antonio Marras for Kenzo based this years fall collection around muted plaids, houndstooth, tweed and a variation of abstract prints. The color palette revolved around grays but was tastefully highlighted with touches of red, brown and oranges. Ankle baring trousers and cropped jackets presented in the Place des…
PETROU With the help of stylist Robbie Spencer, designer Nicolas Petrou revealed his second menswear collection for Petrou, with a presentation at Drive-In Studios this week. Drawing inspiration from nomadic life and their many travels, Petrou expressed his vision in classic sportswear with looks created in leather, suede, wool, microfiber and nylon. The combination of patterns and…
QASIMI HOMME Khalid Al Qasimi entitled his Fall 2010 collection “The Boy with the Pearl Tear” as a clever play off of the painting and movie “The girl with the Pearl Earring” ; making this collection his interpretation of the movie shown from a masculine perspective. Luxurious cashmeres and virgin wool blends were used for…
ROMAIN KREMER One of the standout new designers in menswear, the fashion forward thinking of Romain Kremer has landed him as one of the favorites at this years Fall 2010 Paris Fashion Week. A brilliant mix of eye popping nylon colors with stark black and futuristic cream were a sublime combination making the collection more playful…
SMALTO This season Smalto’s creative director, Youn Chong Bak took her inspiration from Asian steppes and traditional ancestral treasures of the Mongolian culture. Relaxed yet well tailored pieces were in perfect harmony. The line was anchored by natural elements and the generous usage of raw materials in cold refined colors; stark white, neutral greys and beige…
SONGZIO Held at Palais Brongniart in Paris, the Songzio Fall Winter 2010 show was a dark and mysterious affair. The line had a safe color palette of blacks and greys with an interesting mix of organic fabrics. Tailored jackets and sleeveless leather vests gave a very masculine look to the Songzio man. The drop crutch shorts…
Reconstructed Collars, knitwear and abstract prints were the mainstays of the Tillmann Lauterbach Fall 2010 collection. Accessible yet modern menswear was presented through a series of bold and abstract prints in beige tones and shades of green. I am particularly fond of the one piece collar-less boiler suit in navy blue and the shortened structured trousers…
TIM HAMILTON Keeping things rather gloomy and dark; American designer Tim Hamilton composed his Fall 2010 menswear collection completely of black and greys. Thankfully Hamilton kept things interesting with rounded silhouettes, ultra luxe sequins and subtly refined prints. The collection was both edgy yet sensible, intertwining strong masculine pieces with an urban twist. Playing on the…
TORD PEUR Yohan Serfaty’s Autumn / Winter 2010 TORD PEUR Collection was presented in a brilliantly modern multimedia presentation of a runway show amongst video projections in the Marais. Some of his leather jackets had extreme detailing while other coats were constructed with dramatic high collars and sherpa flaps. His collection of rigid and subtle…
A CHILD OF THE JAGO Designer duo Simon Armitage and Joseph Corre released their ‘Terrorist” collection on the Fall 2010 London runway, focusing their aesthetic on ‘finely tailored menswear, mixed in with a heavy dose of rock n roll attitude and punk styling’. A variety of sporty casual pieces are featured in the latest eclectic…
ALICE PALMER Alice Palmer played with a palette of black, white and silver for her merino lamb’s wool silk-mix pieces that are tailored to conform closely to the lines of the body. Lethal punk studded tights added drama to the molded knitwear line whilst long black asymmetrical gowns add elegance. – FASHION WEEK COVERAGE & VIDEOS…
ANNE SOFIE BACK Fascinated by virtual representation, designer Anne Sofie Back was inspired by her virtual avatar in popular game, Second Life for a conceptual collection. Muscles were a recurring motif emphasizing the exaggerated body forms the online alter egos take. White transparent tulle gowns were paired with black jerseys whilst daringly cut gray suede…
BASSO & BROOKE Basso & Brooke traveled to the far corners of the earth in search of inspiration for Fall 2010. A two week excursion to ancient Silk Road and Samarkland, where the borders of East and West originally lay nearly a millennium ago. The trip was not unsuccessful as it yielded a world of…
BELLE SAUVAGE Virginia Ferreira and Christian Neuman of Belle Sauvage made science and technology their focus with a conceptual collection that a had a distinctly futuristic feel. Using H.R. Giger as their muse, the designers experimented with bold fuchsia, blue and black digital prints and combined some interesting tailored leatherwork pieces. – FASHION WEEK COVERAGE…
BERNARD CHANDRAN The Malaysian born, Paris educated Bernard Chandran mixed textures and toyed with shape for Fall 2010. Styling the models as modern Geishas was an interjection of edge that emphasized the bold elements of the sequined eveningwear that was accompanied by oversized metallic clutch bags. Power shoulders and stiff cord belts finished with metal…
BODYAMR Inspired by a “sharp-witted woman who embraces both her masculine and feminine sides”, Bodyamr designer and founder Amr Ali has managed to capitalize on that vision with his AW 2010 collection. By using hard-edged feminine designs tinged with masculine elements, he mixed pieces like billowy high-waisted pleated trousers with sexy deep-v blouses and sequin…
