The tenth anniversary of Charles Jeffrey‘s brand LOVERBOY was held Saturday, June 8 at London’s Somerset House. Fashion show “10” was a summation of LOVERBOY, but also a departure from the narrative-driven shows of its past: the SS25 collection titled “The Decade Line” was formed by exploring ‘queer time.’ This concept focuses on how queerness shapes not only our understanding of gender and self, but also how it changes our experiences of time and our relations to the past, present, and future.
This collection’s manifesto focuses on creating an ecosystem around the successful elements of their current market offerings. The LOVERBOY team aimed to develop a purposeful wardrobe that resonates with their customers at every stage of their day. This approach involved a deep understanding of customer habits and preferences to guide them to trust Loverboy’s vision through a combination of core products and new items designed to foster loyalty and love for the brand.
Charles Jeffrey is known for its unique fashion dreamscapes that blend Scottish folklore, the vibrant energy of London’s queer nightlife and music scenes and the celebration of queerness. This creative synergy adds depth to LOVERBOY’s narrative with each new season. The brand’s radical and inclusive philosophy ensures that its clothing is versatile and accessible to everyone, reflecting a commitment to diverse expressions of identity.
“10 years of figuring it out as we go along.
10 years of work all wrapped up in 3 rooms.
10 years of vibes expected in one show.
10 years of thoughts all spinning around in one’s head.
10 years of being grateful for a wonderful team.
10 years of 10 years of 10 years.
10 years.
10.”– Charles Jeffrey, Creative Director & Founder
“The Decade Line” juxtaposes nightwear and undergarments with formal outerwear, blending public and private, labor and leisure. Hair and makeup were used to suggest a post-punk aesthetic with dark-ringed eyes and touseled and teased hair. These created moody, vampy looks that contrasted with the bright patterns and flowing fabrics of the designs. Through draping and deconstruction, the collection evokes a sense of becoming and undoing, reminiscent of clothing hastily pulled on and gradually unraveling.
“10” coincided with Loverboy’s return to London and the launch of their first exhibition, “The Lore of LOVERBOY,” at Somerset House. The collection references British style: military and gamekeeping, as well as subverting traditional masculine symbols. Iconic elements from Loverboy’s past, like the ears beanie and banana motif, are reimagined in new forms like the Banana boot.
The 7 key themes in the show manifested as colors, silhouettes, and materials throughout the collection. First, ‘Soft Soldiers:’ drawing on traditional British military dress uniforms, decorative braiding and bright colors blended military-inspired elements with softer, more fluid designs that juxtapose toughness and vulnerability. ‘REDUCE. Refine. RE-CONNECT‘ emphasized minimalism and refinement, reconnecting modern fashion with essential and simplistic design values. The theme ‘Roman Drapes‘ incorporated classical elements inspired by Roman drapery, using materials like leather and faux leather to create a sculptural, elegant effect reminiscent of Greek statues.
The next four are all names with distinct styles: ‘Benjamin‘ wears blue and strips; ‘Hector/James‘ wears vintage trench coats and suits; ‘Sam‘ frequents English pubs and Union-Jack-inspired coats with ribbons and fringe; ‘Charles‘ is the most elegant, with a proper tuxedo and evening formalwear from the 1920s and 30s.
The key themes were threaded throughout the show and appeared on the runway in a more muted style, appropriate for ready-to-wear.
The show was attended by many high-profile guests, including actress Tilda Swinton; model Erin O’Connor who walked in the show; actor Jack Wolfe of The Magic Flute and Shadow & Bone; American singer/songwriter Beth Ditto who walked and performed in the show; Bobby, Wolf and Lux Gillespie; and Princess Julia.
