The first-ever David Koma‘s Menswear collection has premiered for SS25. The collection is full of luxurious contradictions, aiming to represent the multifaceted reality of masculinity. Inspired by dance and the diverse individuals in Koma’s personal circle, the looks rely on juxtaposition as a device to communicate the collection’s story.
“Venturing into menswear feels like a natural step, completing my dream of ‘Club Koma’. This process has fostered a profound sense of personal connection and introspection, as I see myself as the ultimate customer for the first time. The launch of this collection is particularly special as it allows me to design with my male friends in mind, broadening the inclusivity and reach of my creative vision. I am thrilled about this new chapter and invite new voices and perspectives to join our brand’s realm.”
– David Koma, Creator and Artistic Director
The collection is an exercise in contrast, yet the various textures and materials are all linked by color or a connection to the natural world. There are delicate feather plumes exploding boisterously to accent shoulders and boots, and even one full pant leg contrasting beautifully with the simple, classic tailoring of the other. Leather, a staple in menswear, can be seen in both tailored and casual looks and with different finishes, like the heavily distressed and “cracked” jacket seen in the first look. Long denim shorts and jeans are presented in a dusty indigo or raw boucle, reimagining the classic material.
Koma seeks to elevate quintessential wardrobe materials and creatively employ them in reimagined silhouettes. Poplins usually found in the office are embellished and used in boxer shorts and military shirting. Harsh tailored pieces are constructed from satin, cady, and wool boucle to receive soft touches. Drawing on Gavin Turk’s art piece “Pop,” branded chrome hardware appears in a garter-like accessory, and there are intricate and opulent jewels. Casual jersey elements ground the more luxurious details, and give the collection a cohesive and lived-in feel. Koma wants the pieces to invite the wearer to engage tactilely and introspectively with the designer’s perspective on modern masculinity.
Koma’s recent womenswear collection was inspired by strong women of the dance world like neo-expressionist trailblazer Pina Bausch and modern-dance savant Candela Capitan, so the nod to Jiří Kylián’s contemporary ballet, ‘Sarabande’ in this collection comes as no surprise. This ballet premiered in 1990 and featured traditional ballet and contemporary dance influences, and explores the entwining of male aggression and vulnerability. The ballet focuses on “formation” within the performance, which resonated deeply with Koma as he created his collection. The ballet exudes strength and restraint, suggesting the power and beauty of the masculine form. Vulnerability and softness shine in the dynamic movements and elegant lines created by the dancers, as well as in the drape and design of the collection.
The Koma man created by this collection embodies strength, aloofness and independence—he is also sensual and soft. The collection walks the line between ease and sophistication, playfulness and refinement. Tempering the overtly masculine and utilitarian references are subtle nods to whimsy and sensuality, leaving the overall effect one of nuanced yet effortless elegance.
